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Mehdi Sef

Breaking The Frame

Team

Photography Mehdi Sef
Fashion Coline Peyrot from Opos
Makeup Emilie Plume from Carol Hayes Management
Hair Carole Douard from Call My Agent
Model Rachel Marx from Supreme Management Paris


Designers

  1. Earrings MARION VIDAL Top and Trousers LÉO Boots MM6 MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
  2. Mousseline Dress FIFI CHACHNIL Silk Dress CARVEN Boots NEITH NYER
  3. Earrings MARION VIDAL X CHRISTIAN WIJNANTS Top SEAN SUEN Cardigan FIFI CHACHNIL Trousers MM6 MAISON MARGIELA
  4. Earrings MARION VIDAL X CHRISTIAN WIJNANTS Tulle and Top QUOÏ ALEXANDER Trousers VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
  5. Earrings MARION VIDAL X CHRISTIAN WIJNANTS Sunglasses GENTLE MONSTER Top ACNE STUDIOS Skirt LÉO Leggings DORHOUT MEES Sandals LAURENCE DACADE
  6. Sunglasses GENTLE MONSTER Earrings MARION VIDAL x CHRISTIAN WIJNANTS   Top and Skirt MAISON RABIH KAYROUZ   Boots MM6 MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
  7. Earrings MARION VIDAL X CHRISTIAN WIJNANTS Sunglasses GENTLE MONSTER Jacket LÉO Dress RAHUL MISHRA
  8. Earrings MARION VIDAL X CHRISTIAN WIJNANTS Top SIRLOIN Dress Y’S YOHJI YAMAMOTO Trousers ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER Boots MM6 MAISON MARGIELA

Bergrstand and Duljak

Augustin and Luca

Team

Photography · Niklas Bergrstand and Mateja Duljak
Fashion · Arthur Mayadoux
Make-Up · Rikke Dengse Jensen   
Hair · Nicolas Philippon
Fashion Assistant · Victoire Seveno
Models · Augustin and Luca from Success Models


Designers

  1. Top ISSEY MIYAKE MEN Coat DIESEL BLACK GOLD
  2. Luca wears Sweater JITROIS Augustin wears Jumpsuit VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
  3. Jacket BALLY Shirt DRIES VAN NOTEN Trousers ISSEY MIYAKE MEN
  4. Top ISSEY MIYAKE MEN Shorts DIESEL BLACK GOLD
  5. Jacket FAITH CONNEXION
  6. Augustin wears Trench ACNE STUDIOS Shorts DIESEL BLACK GOLD Shoes PIERRE HARDY Luca wears Jogger LUCIEN PELLAT FINET
  7. Tracksuit KOCHE Boots DR MARTENS
  8. Trench DRIES VAN NOTEN Shorts ARTHUR AVELLANO Briefs ACNE STUDIOS Shoes PIERRE HARDY
  9. Shirt DRIES VAN NOTEN Jacket BALLY
  10. Augustin wears Jumper VIVIENNE WESTWOOD Trousers KENZO Luca wears Jacket ISSEY MIYAKE MEN Trousers LANVIN
  11. Luca wears Jumper KENZO Jogger LACOSTE Sneakers ADIDAS Augustin wears Tracksuit KOCHE Boots DR MARTENS

Paul Mpagi Sepuya

«I know every fragment, sliver of space or edge of a table that relates to a figure not present»

It’s the small details that capture attention in the work of Paul Mpagi Sepuya – the evidence and lasting presence of human encounter, finger prints and smudges on glass, for instance. Though the photographer works only with a digital camera, there’s a certain tactility that lingers in his work. 

Relationships come to the forefront; Sepuya’s work centres around friendships, intimate encounters, muses and himself. The notion of the ‘dark room’ (which has been referenced both in titled works and in solo installations) lays claim to ambiguity – it both refers to the place in which the photographer creates, documents and develops, and it is also the space of homoerotic sexual exchange. The lines are, at once, blurred and clearly demarcated. In the absence of interpreting the dark room in terms of its analogue definition and purpose, Sepuya ‘develops’ his photography through a process of collaging, layering and re-production. A photograph becomes a multi-layered image, further distorted by the presence of mirrors that are often the focus of the camera. It’s difficult, at times, to ascertain what is what: within a single work, fragments of figures and moments in time are often combined. None of which is accidental; such an amalgamation of displaced aspects come together as a multifaceted study in portraiture. 

Throughout Sepuya’s work there’s a critical awareness of the role that his camera plays in capturing time and its implications on human interaction – something that is quantified by the inclusion of his work at MoMA’s distinguished ‘New Photography’ exhibition under this year’s theme ‘being’. 

NR: Some of your photographs address individuals by name in the title, others refer to a figure or figures; is there a logic behind the distinction?

Paul MPagi Sepuya: My earlier portrait projects, beginning with Beloved Object & Amorous Subject (Revisited) from2005 – 2008, and the other portraits up until 2014 were all titled by the name of the individual or subjects. I don’t photograph models and there are friendships, collaborations and at minimum social acquaintances with everyone at the beginning of or working together, it was important for me to ground the work in that social space. As the individual portraits moved into the world, and into various studios I was working in (the earlier works were photographed in my home), the titles came to include the date and location of the photograph. Those photographs could be portraits, or me re-photographing materials in my studio which gave way to a “collage” type style, though the work was never collaged.

Figures came into the work when I returned to Los Angeles for grad school at UCLA. Reconstituting materials through arranging them on the surface of mirrors that I would photograph in front of my tripod-camera allowed me to create compositions *about* subjects more loosely, and so the number of figures noted corresponded to the number of subjects in the fragments that made up the complete picture. Currently, I have left behind names from my titles. Each work is titled by the project that it inhabits (Mirror Study, A Portrait, Studio, A Ground, etc…), and the name given the file capture in camera.

«I’m interested in emphasizing the inside-outside aspect of recognition within this ‘dark room’ space where, like all of my work has been positioned, it is the meeting points of queer and homoerotic creative, social, and sexual exchange.»

NR: How do you relate to the people in your photos, when their bodies appear fragmented and abstracted?

PMS: I know every fragment, sliver of space or edge of a table that relates to a figure not present. That’s to say, they are never fragments or abstractions because, indexed alongside them in a larger project, are the notations that tie them to the full portraits. I make a point of saying that;

«no subjects are left to fragmentation and abstraction in my work; there is always a full portrait of each subject.»

NR: What is the appeal of digital photography for you?

PMS: It’s efficiency for my process, that’s it. I am strongly against the digital manipulation of my pictures, or creating/assembling pictures through digital collage, etc. The material that is arranged, cut, and affixed on the surface of the mirrors comes from the in-process materials in my studio. So to be able to photograph, print and re-photograph within a single space is important to me. It’s a method that began during my residency at the Center for Photography at Woodstock in 2010, and I have used in various forms since then. 

NR: If taking a photograph can capture a specific moment in time, how does your practise (from taking a photograph to reworking and collaging it) relate to notions of time and memory?

PMS: I am less interested in moments in time (which I associate with the outside world) than with the “collage of compressed time” –  or something to the effect that Brian O’Doherty speaks of in Studio and Cube: On The Relationship Between Where Art is Made and Where Art is Displayed. He describes studio time as placing all material in the present, within the reach of revision and remaking by the artist’s hand. That is how I associate the process of portrait-making with the real-world relationships that make that production possible. 

NR: Can the context of viewing your work as part of a wider exhibition influence the way the pieces are perceived? And add to their development as ‘works in progress’?

PMS: Yes, indeed. All of my work is made toward the consideration of a grammar and visual rhythm, whether it’s content, formal elements or scale, in relation to my larger body of work.  

NR: What is the allure of the physicality of photography (when it’s printed out to be used for collages, or when it’s featured in zines or books)?

PMS: Images can’t just free float. I am invested in the handling pictures, having to contend with them physically. I started by making zines and books, and with the current “collage” works,  

«it is important that I am inherently a part of the image during the process of their making.»

While I work, I am within the reflected space of my studio. 

NR: What, if anything, do you want the viewer to take away from your work in regards to queer and black identities?

PMS: Absolutely nothing as far as identity may be proscribed. But everything as far as the materiality and sociality of queerness, homoeroticism, and blackness as requisites for a kind of knowledge and experience otherwise obliterated by whiteness and heteronormativity.

NR: Your photographs often allude to the presence of people no longer present in the frame, from fingerprints in the mirror to abandoned orange peel; what is the significance of the documenting these aspects?

PMS: Whether a subject is represented through pictorial representation in a straight-up portrait or not,

«I want the images to include an indexical mark of the social world from which it comes.»

These traces of real people can’t be faked. They are like smoke to fire. Funnily (or frustratingly?) enough, someone once asked me about the “smoke” in the photographs and I had to correct and say, no they are *another* kind of trace. They are the smudges of bodies – my own and others – as we work to make the images. 

NR: The photographer’s studio connotes a sense of purpose and control over the subject and the outcome, is this something that you consider or navigate through your work? 

PMS: Since I first started working in a studio and became fascinated by the possibilities therein, it’s become a site for me that really amplifies my presence, in thinking about the history of that control asserted by the artist along with the loosening of social and sexual morality that becomes permissible in that space. The permission that, within the world of the artist, is given to re-arranging and representing desire. 

Photos

  1. Mirror Study, 2016
  2. A Sitting For Matthew, 2015
  3. Dark Room Mirror, 2017
  4. Figure Ground Study, 2017

Moses Sumney

«Maybe because the sun is not shining, people are more moody, they’re more in their feelings»

“I felt like all my career I’ve been waiting in the wings,” Moses Sumney tells me over the phone from Paris. “And it’s really nice to see the music get out there and reach people that aren’t just me.” While the 28-year-old American artist has been quietly making waves with his live performances and material for some time, putting out self-recorded Mid-City Island in 2014 followed by Lamentations in 2016, it wasn’t until September last year his first full length album, Aromanticism, finally brought his talent fully into the limelight. Born in San Bernardino, he moved with his parents to Ghana at the age of 10 before returning to the US to study. He recorded in his bedroom, taught himself guitar and first performed at the age of 20. For Sumney, releasing his debut album marks the culmination of a long process of overcoming shyness and being “diligent and persistent” to bring his songwriting out into the world: “There have been a million challenges. I have so many even now. But I felt this was always what I was meant to do, so nothing was going to deter me from doing it.” The persistence certainly paid off, with Aromanticism being launched to great critical acclaim, including being named one of the best albums of 2017 by the New York Times and Rolling Stone.

Characterised by Sumney’s haunting vocals and searching lyrics, the album purposefully meditates on a central topic, something he felt would be important to “make the project feel cohesive”: “I decided sonically it needed to feel intimate but expansive. And lyrically and thematically it needed to be about one thing, which ended up being Aromanticism.” The cryptic title alludes to a personal sense Sumney had of his own experience and understanding of love lacking in mainstream representation: “I wanted to explore broader definitions of the word love but also the cracks and crevices of loneliness as well as lovelessness and, more specifically, the absence of romantic love. Most literature, art, music felt like it was engaging with love in a two-dimensional way and I wanted to explore how complex it was.” As he outlines in an essay published at the same time as his album, discussing Greek mythology and the origins of love, he doesn’t see his reflections as rooted only in the contemporary: “These feelings around love don’t start here. People have felt lonely essentially since the beginning of time, there are records of people wanting to be married and not getting the chance to for as long as we’ve had the ability to read.” Rather our modern condition, propelling us inexorably to seek out and find contentment through love and coupledom, and fear our failure, is further exaggerated by the internet: “One of the hallmarks of being a young person alive presently is you think that everything that is happening to you or to your generation is incredibly unique. We tend to navel gaze a lot. But it’s important to recognise our prevailing feelings around love and romance are pre-existing.”

«It’s just the internet era tends to heighten everything, to amplify and augment feelings, cultural movements and observations.»

Informed by his time spent studying literature and writing, there’s an equally academic and poetic approach to delineating emotions that plays out through the album and constantly subverts expectations, each track forming an exploration of a distinct but connected topic to his central thesis. This he feels is best captured in Doomed on which he asks: “If lovelessness is godlessness/Will you cast me to the wayside?” On Plastic he takes aim at how impressions can be out of kilter with reality: “Funny how a stomach unfed/Seems satisfied ‘cause it’s swell and swollen.” His personal favourite Indulge Me meanwhile finds a moment of reconciliation in the wake of bitterness and torment: “All my old lovers have found others,” accepting his past loves have moved on and finding peace in solitude.

Sonically the album is no less idiosyncratic, resisting any easy shoe-horning into a neat genre. Beautifully evocative falsetto and harmonies reach to the rafters with delicacy and calm yet hold a melancholy in their yearning for answers and are pulled back from optimism by a dark undertow of strings and synths. Hypnotic sounds that ebb and flow, crescendo and fall lull the listener deep into what Sumney calls his “sonic dreamscape.” He notes influences stretching back to his time listening to and performing choral music in a high school choir in his late teens. He draws inspiration from jazz via the likes of Ella Fitzgerald and soul from Aretha Franklin and Stevie Wonder. But he also loves folk and indie rock: “It is an amalgamation of different things. The primary tenets of my music are soul and folk and then sprinkle a bit of indie rock, sprinkle a little bit of experimental, sprinkle a little bit of jazz.”

Crucial to his creative output are his otherworldly videos, though he confesses he initially had no interest in the medium: “I never wanted to make music videos, I really hated them growing up and in my early career because I thought they were so boring. Pop videos have so many jump cuts. I have ADHD so it’s really unrelaxing to see all the different ideas flash in front of you.” That all changed on meeting Brooklyn-based Allie Avital, who has now directed or co-directed with Sumney all of his videos – and also convinced him to be in them: “My process is largely attached to her. For at least two of the videos, she came up with the ideas, and for the other two Quarrel and Doomed I did. I have images that flash into my head when I listen to a song, whether an associated colour or an associated scene, so usually I take those ideas and talk to her about them and just flesh them out with her. It’s been an amazing process.”

Now the visual aesthetic is increasingly important to Sumney: “Even when we’re not able to make official videos I try to make a little visualiser for each song on YouTube just so there’s some kind of visual world just attached to it. Listening to the song can give you one meaning of it but then making a visual that can seemingly be semi-detached can help complete the story.” Now there is also a generation often consuming new music for the first time via video: “It’s kind of a great propaganda tool honestly because you can inseminate an image into someone’s mind when they’re hearing something for the first time. You get to control their response to it or at least to an extent their conception of what that music is and what it means. It’s kind of fucked up,” he adds with a laugh. In contrast to the attention-deficit-inducing videos he so hated in pop, his slow-burners each take a seemingly simple concept and execute it in stunning and moving ways. Lonely World takes us to a surreal black and white scene of Sumney coming across a female fish-like creature on a beach. Quarrel is an alternately dreamlike and nightmarish abstract vision of horses. Doomed has Sumney floating in a tank, no mean feat considering Sumney doesn’t know how to swim and had to spend eight hours in the water: “It was nerve wracking but the emotion I was supposed to communicate was one of terror anyway so it was kind of appropriate for me to be scared and uncomfortable.” Sumney further explained the concept, “as a song it is about speaking to God or speaking to the universe and being like, ‘what is the meaning if nobody loves me or if I don’t love anyone.’ It’s engaging with the idea that life sometimes feels like a cruel joke and there’s some higher power or design looking down on us like, ‘Ha ha, that’s funny.’ So I wanted to communicate in the end with the birds eye view, just the idea of looking down at these little rats. It feels like often we’re just like test tube babies with someone vaguely experimenting with us all.” Unexpectedly a seed for the idea was sewn from the final scene in the first Men in Black: “There’s a shot at end where they do this huge zoom out and you see each planet is actually just a marble and there’s these aliens playing with the marbles.”

«It really fucked me up as a child, like ‘oh my god, is someone just playing with my life?’ I wanted to tap into that in Doomed.»

Collaborations have formed a key part of Sumney’s career, including co-producing and singing the opening track on Beck’s covers compilation Song Reader and holding a guest spot on Solange’s A Seat at the Table album. Last year he performed at the Oscar’s alongside Sufjan Stevens and St Vincent on Mystery of Love from Luca Guadagnino’s Call Me by Your Name, nominated for Best Original Song, an experience he live Tweeted to hilarious effect. He tells me: “From the stage I could see Meryl Streep, I could see her. So that was cool, you know, not unnerving at all…” Since Aromanticism’s release he’s also hit a packed schedule of festival and gig dates worldwide including London’s Field Day and Germany’s MELT!, as well as the US’s Coachella and Pitchfork Festival and he sold out Sydney Opera House in February.

Coming out of his shell and putting his work on the stage is something he is still challenged by. On the one hand seeing tracks he wrote and practised in his bedroom move and connect with people who don’t even share his language has been exhilarating, yet hitting new cities every few days has also left him feeling “unbalanced”: “It’s a pretty unnatural thing for a human being to do. So it’s incredibly euphoric but maybe I would better describe it as manic. Sometimes you feel really high, sometimes you feel really low: my mood changes every five minutes. It’s a pretty wild ride but I love singing and I love performing so it feels really good.”

It’s London though that Sumney admits is his favourite place to be and play: “People on this side of the world tend to embrace experimentation a lot better than where I’m from, better than Los Angeles especially which seems beholden to commercial music tropes often, even in the indie scene. I appreciate in London I have room to be weird, I have room to experiment, I have room to be soulful. Maybe because the sun is not shining people are more moody, they’re more in their feelings,” he says, only half-jokingly.

A move away from his home country he also reflects is to do with a detachment from the political situation there, one he sees has been deteriorating for much of his adult life: “It feels pretty futile to let it upset me. Since last year I’ve been spending most of my time in Europe and most of that in England. I think I’ve been through so many phases of being enraged that sometimes I take a little break, which I’m doing now, and then I just focus on music which helps me feel better, balanced, cleansed, sane. Maybe it is a bit escapist.”

Cognisant of the fact that the industry doesn’t allow complacency, since the album’s launch he has also released extended version Make Out in My Car: Chameleon Suite with various reimaginings of the original track, including a duet with Alex Isley, a James Blake remix and a new song based on the original by Sufjan Stevens. Most recently in August came three-track EP Black in Deep Red, 2014 including Rank & File which holds a fresh energy, with fingers clicks and marching beats reminiscent of military protest. And he’s already been cooking up his next record: ‘It just takes a long time to make an album, you kind of have to get right back in if you want to do it again.” The next one he says, “is going to be louder and crazier, a little bit more experimentation but also a little more focus on the songwriting. I think it will just feel like another step or another chapter to the same book. I feel I have a lot of freedom and can do whatever I want so I’m really just trying to challenge myself to make music that doesn’t sound like everything else.”

He recognises however this is perhaps not the case across the industry: «There could be more room for weird music in the general dialogue. Sometimes I feel like now is a really free moment and then other times I feel the internet is making everything be one big amalgamated sound. It has opened things up more so that you don’t need to be backed by a huge record label. But I don’t feel things are diverse enough.»

«Even when weirdos come into the mix there has to be an element of familiarity to what they do in order for it to connect or be shared and pitched to the masses. I think that blocks diversity from being genuine.»

In particular, he warns that an impression of greater diversity can hide a lack of true progression: “I feel this current moment, this generation is a little bit too like, ‘let’s pat ourselves on the back, there’s a black person singing.’ Like, ‘cool, good on us.’ And I think that self-congratulatory attitude has a tendency to stifle growth. I’m not ever really going to be the kind of person that’s going to say ‘there’s enough women playing guitars.’ I’m like, ‘there’s two. So let’s calm down.’”

Credits

Photography · Aaron Sinclair
Photo Assistant · Brandon Bowen
Fashion · Phil Gomez
Talent · Moses Sumney
Words · Sarah Bradbury

Designers

  1. Hat CANDICE CUOCO Sunglasses and Coat Artist’s own
  2. Coat CAMOUFLAGE Vest and trousers RESURRECTION

Luis Corzo

Credits

http://www.luiscorzo.com/

Photos

  1. All photos are of The Carpenter Center for the Visual Arts

Sharon Radisch

Sharon Radisch

Utah

Terry O’Neill

«Sometimes the best shots are the ones you are lucky to catch»

When thinking of some of the iconic stars of the 20th century, it’s likely that an equally iconic photograph of them has been taken by Terry O’Neill. Having inadvertently found himself at the epicentre of the glitz of the swinging sixties, O’Neill cut his teeth amongst the Beatles and the Rolling Stones.

Born in London, he had wanted to be a jazz drummer, and, accordingly, took a job with British Airways as a photographer, with the ambition of working up to a flight attendant which would have allowed him four days a week on the ground in New York – and a way into the jazz world. Yet, a chance snapshot of a sleeping man, who turned out to be the then-home secretary, RAB Butler, gave O’Neill an unlikely way into photography. His embracing of an emerging youth culture is a testament to his distinctive eye; working ahead of the curve, both his subjects and images alike would come to have resounding influence.

Over the course of a luminous career, O’Neill has worked with legendary names – from Frank Sinatra, and Audrey Hepburn – to David Bowie and Nelson Mandela. Across an extensive oeuvre, the unique partnering of star power with the quality behind the persona conjure up a bewildering sense of awe. Behind the glamour, though, lies the pragmatism of O’Neill himself. 

NR: Of all the photographs you’ve taken over the years, is there one that stands out as a personal favourite?

Terry O’ Neill: I think it’s Sinatra on the Boardwalk (1968) – that was the first time I met Frank Sinatra. I already knew Ava [Gardner], and told her I was headed down to Miami to work with her ex-husband – she said, “I’ll write you a letter.”  So I go down to Miami and I’m waiting for Sinatra to arrive. I look up and see these men approaching, and I started to take pictures. Sinatra and his guys came right up to me, and I nervously handed Frank the letter. He read it, looked and me and said to his boys, “it’s okay. He’s with us now.” And that was the start of a long working relationship I developed with him. He was a legend.

Do you ever look back critically on any of your photographs?

Oh, of course. Sometimes when I go into the office and I’m shown the negatives of my work, I’m surprised that I took so many pictures. At the time though, when I was working, I never looked back. I was always looking for the next job. 

Are you always in control of the image you take, or are there incidences where the outcome is entirely accidental?

I think, except for a few, it’s all incidental. I love the work of photographer W. Eugene Smith, and so,

«I was inspired to take photos of what I saw on the street. Sometimes the best shots are the ones you are lucky to catch.»

Is there a certain characteristic you focus on, and like to draw out in your photos?

I wanted to capture the subject just a little off-guard. If not that, I’d try to find that specific moment that defines who they are. With the photo I took of Terence Stamp and Jean Shrimpton, for example, the assignment I was given was to capture the “face of the Sixties”. Theirs were the first two faces that popped into my mind. I decided to get in really close and crop it in, so you are just left with this intense stare. 

How do you control the portrayal of ‘star power’ in your photos of high profile celebrities?

I was never really bothered by all of that. I started out at the same time that many celebrities did too – movie stars, and rock stars. There was only ever one time I was asked to leave, when shooting Steve McQueen. But I did sneak in a few shots beforehand!

In terms of the poses that your subjects adopt, are they agreed upon beforehand – or entirely natural? 

I’ve done both. When I was asked to take photos of the newest Oscars Best Actress winner, I wanted to do something different. I didn’t want the big smile, holding up the award.

«I wanted to know what it looked like the morning after – when it all hits you that you’ve just won an Oscar, and your salary has just gone up by millions.»

I asked Faye [Dunaway] to meet me by the pool of the Beverly Hills Hotel at 6am. I was friends with the guy who ran the pool, and he snuck me in. I set it all up – the papers, the breakfast, the Oscar. And she sat there. Many people consider that photo to be one of the best images of Hollywood.

In the time since you started out, what is the most significant change to take place in terms of celebrity photography?

Selfies! And the fact that stars have too much control over their image now. In order to work with a celebrity, you have to deal with managers, publicists and the managers of the publicists, you have to give up approval and rights. By the time the photograph runs, it doesn’t even look like the person you shot! Everything has been approved by everyone – except for the photographer. In that sense,

«we’ve lost a lot; a lot of great pictures will never be seen, let alone even taken. It’s a shame. Everything is staged and then made to look better. It’s no longer just a great photo of someone.»

You’ve said there is nobody today that you’d want to photograph, what could change your mind on that?

I was very lucky that I worked at a time when stars like Frank Sinatra, Audrey Hepburn, Elizabeth Taylor, The Beatles, even David Bowie, were around. If you invented a time machine and send me back to the ‘60s, then I’d change my mind!

Credits

Terry O’Neill: Rare & Unseen is available now

Photos

  1. Singer and actor Frank Sinatra, with his minders and his stand in (who is wearing an identical outfit to him), arriving at Miami beach while filming, ‘The Lady in Cement’, 1968.
  2. Scottish actor Sean Connery as James Bond taking a bath during the filming of ‘Diamonds Are Forever’, 1971.
  3. American actress Faye Dunaway takes breakfast by the pool with the day’s newspapers at the Beverley Hills Hotel, 29th March 1977. She seems less than elated with her success at the previous night’s Academy Awards ceremony, where she won the 1976 Oscar for Best Actress in a Leading Role for ‘Network’.
  4. Singer David Bowie poses with a large barking dog for publicity shots for his 1974 album ‘Diamond Dogs’ in London.

Mehdi Sef

Simon

Credits

Photography · MEHDI SEF
Fashion · NIMA HABIBZADEH and JADE REMOVILLE
Make-Up · AURÉLIE DELTOUR Hair YUMIKO HIKAGE
Model · SIMON MUCHARDT from Success Models
Location · BETC PARIS

Designers

  1. Coat and Trousers BERLUTI Boots YANG LI
  2. Shirt and Trousers DSQUARED2 Boots YANG LI
  3. Suit EMPORIO ARMANI
  4. Shirt and Trousers DSQUARED2
  5. Full Look WOOYOUNGMI with EMPORIO ARMANI Shoes
  6. Full Look VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
  7. Coat and Trousers BERLUTI Boots YANG LI
  8. Shirt and Trousers SIES MARJAN Boots YANG LI
  9. Jumper and Trousers ROBERTO CAVALLI Shoes EMPORIO ARMANI
  10. Full Look JIL SANDER
  11. Jumper ROBERTO CAVALLI

Rubberband

«if you want to be happy, the easiest way is to not think about yourself»

Tension. Building. The forces at work are pulled taught, the feeling of potential flexes itself and finds relief in the ensuing moment almost effortlessly, the open palm closes. Final form is evasive because purpose is always readjusting itself, writhing, stretching to capacity but never beyond. The shapes we find ourselves in become mirrors for empathy when we understand the rubberband. 

Simon and Jason, the New York City director duo that has chosen this monocher, are two parts to a whole and reflect the oscillating balance innate to its name. The body of work that they’ve created ranges from music videos featuring rising talent, to profile vignettes of big name talents like Offset and Solange, to campaigns for Reebok starring industry heavyweights like Pyer Moss and yet, regardless of conduit, rubberband. aims to embody the ineffable. Their dynamic works as pairs of hands extending outward from a two-way mirror, coalescing at unlikely junctures, tangling before realization, unafraid of the openness that subjectivity invites. Arranging gesture amongst shadow, sound as intent and light with colored emotion, Simon and Jason design narratives that utilize specificity to speak to a kind of universality that recognizes vulnerability as truth. We speak with the duo over FaceTime during quarantine from our rooms, scattered across the city, together but apart. 

I know you both grew up either in NYC or within its vicinity and continued to remain in its orbit throughout your time spent at New York University where you met studying film at Tisch. New York, the city itself, is such an iconic, visual fixture that anchors the plots of so many movies and I’m wondering how it shaped your own lenses as you grew into your own as directors and as rubberband.?

S: I grew up outside of the city in New Jersey and I also lived in Italy for a bit when I was really young. My parents are professors, my mom is an art historian so I spent a lot of time in museums and there was a lot of discussion of art in the house. Living in Italy, immersed in the world of cathedrals and frescos, Michelangelo and Brunelleschi and Giotto, going to the museums, experiencing all of these things at an extremely young age I think really shaped my worldview. Those years informed what I wanted to do with my life— it was the thing that spoke to me most and I think film, beginning with making skate videos as a kid and all that kind of stuff, was just a natural progression from those formative experiences.  

J: Yeah, neither of my parents were involved in art or film. My dad leased shopping centers and my mom was a menswear buyer for Ralph Lauren so I never had any classical or specific sort of art’s background. I got to carry the Thomas Walther internship at MoMa when I was in college. The internship was my first, direct experience in that kind of space and previously, I assumed that art was mainly about aesthetics, which of course it is, but working there I also got to see how important the historical doctrine of art was.

I really feel like growing up in the city was sort of the antithesis of film and inspiration in a way.  The first jazz album I ever listened to, which is definitely a cliche, was Miles Davis’ Kind of Blue. I remember listening to Blue in Green on a computer when I was like 11 and thought that this is what New York sounded  and felt like. I think that the synesthesia that occurred was a weirdly fundamental part of forming how and what I wanted to make. As Simon and I have grown together in our work, Simon is this very intellectual guy in terms of ideas and I think I am much more of a physical entity, which creates this sort of synergy. I think there’s this other part of film that a lot of people like to look over which is that film is a very physical process. You have to physically do it. I used an analogy a while ago, which Simon has heard a million times so he’ll probably laugh at me, but film is analogous to making a chair, making a bench or building a sculpture. 

Yeah I just interviewed director Jonas Akerlund, and we were talking about the distinction between art and entertainment and how he sees film to ultimately lean more towards the latter than the former. On the other hand, with rubberband. in particular, you guys are specifically interested in the emotional propensity of filmmaking to evoke, mirror and create universal commentary on the human condition which to me, points to veering on the side of art. Can you guys walk me through your understanding of it all — emotionality, art, entertainment — and how you maintain a sense of integrity whilst in the mix?

S: They’re a lot of people who view those things as mutually exclusive, as if entertainment and art somehow can’t coexist and I don’t know if there’s a lot of benefit to that distinction or if it’s necessarily true. I think a lot of the art that shaped my life is both entertaining while also speaking to me on a level that transcends explanation. There’s something about the feeling that it evokes inside you and that becomes the magic of the thing. Jason and I joke about this a lot because I think there’s a real pitfall to over-intellectualizing while you’re making something. Whenever we go into a project we have a really strong conceptual understanding of what we’re trying to do but any attempt to define what you’re doing too specifically just seems inherently limiting. By defining something as entertainment or art, you’re automatically limiting the potential of what that thing can be. It’s not that we’re against labels, we just don’t think about it that much, we focus on making sure there’s something interesting about this idea and we both feel it.  

J: I think that’s a really good point. I think whether you define it or not, everyone sort of has a philosophy about how they work and it might not be a thing that they’re even conscious of. In regards to intentionality with style, you should more so just act in the stream of how you feel and that’s what style is. I don’t think style’s about you trying to push a thing further than it’s supposed to be. You could talk to someone like Matthew Barney or Joe Swanberg about what film is to them and they would tell you totally different things, or they might tell you the same thing, but the way they get to those ends is totally different and that’s kind of the beauty of everything — that it’s totally subjective. There’s no universal truth in any of this. People are just trying to get at something that they feel and they’re acting in the course of action that they think is the most direct to get to that result. To think about why too much is sort of self-defeating because you’re immediately comparing. It’s a lot less about thinking and it’s way more about just doing something, just do it in a vacuum, do it in your room, do it wherever, whenever and see what happens.

S: Yeah our philosophy surrounding all of this stuff is sort of just be as open as possible and always foreground that idea that all we know is that we know nothing. When we make something — every single person who watches it, they’re having an entirely unique experience with that object. We realized that this idea of control or ownership of what you make in a certain way is like holding onto water, you’re just letting this thing go and you have to see how people receive it.

«Part of the fun is when someone comes to you with an experience of your work that is completely different because they bring themselves into it.»

We’re always wary of absolutes and people who have these really rigid philosophies and create these kinds of binary distinctions, something about it never really feels right.

J: I would rather be a hypocrite than a person that thinks they’ve had it right since the beginning. Everything that we say is subject to us changing our minds five minutes from now.

Yeah it creates space for growth and what you guys are saying about this kind of pervasive openness, truly letting go of expectation, authority and ownership in a way — does that feel radical to you? What feels radical in filmmaking?

J: To what Simon said earlier, to define it as radical seems besides the point almost to me. I don’t think anyone that does anything that’s really special sets out to do something special, they just do it. Now we make films, we fucking advertise for clothing companies at the end of the day and so we’re certainly not doing what Gandhi did, but I think that this sentiment of acting in accordance with what you think is correct and holding steady to it eventually leads to one of two things happening: either one, you prove yourself correct, or two, you prove yourself wrong and whilst in pursuit of that thing, you actually find a different angle to approach it in. People refuse to ever admit that they were wrong and it’s totally really prevalent in society right now. We’re 26 years old and we have so much left to know and to stand steadfastly by something that you essentially stab your flag in I think is insane. Anything that you learn at any point can change your outlook on everything so the idea of being radical, the idea of trying to do something new is I think a result, it’s not intent. You intend to do something that you think very specifically about, and you try, and then you either fail or succeed and you move on. And I think that keeping those goals very physical and logical ends up being a lot more interesting than trying to keep them like huge and grandiose.

S: In that question of asking about the idea of being radical, it presupposes an intention that to Jason’s point A) I don’t know that we necessarily think about, but I think also B) I think the thing that we’re ultimately chasing is pretty ephemeral. I think it’s about making something that just really embodies the ineffable in a way. It’s not necessarily this thing that can be articulated, it’s more about trying to create something that captures a set of feelings, or evokes those feelings in a way that feels sort of externalized. We all have this reservoir of feeling inside of us and I think a lot of those feelings can’t really be given form just through communication or interpersonal relationships, some of them can only be explored through making things. That feeling, that sort of harmony of looking at something we made knowing that it captures a feeling we were trying to excavate is how we define success artistically.

There’s also like a level of awareness inherent in all of that too. I mean, even just this notion of wanting to give form to the ineffable through visual transference reifies this need to be understood and to reflect understanding. It leads me to wonder what you think the  relationship is between directing and curation? Both are ultimately tools and choices as means to this end.While curation has become a buzz word nowadays, it still enlists this idea of bringing footnotes, aka inner emotions, turmoil, things that we can’t place, to the fore.

J: My fifth-grade teacher, Mrs. Maloney, who is like a very old woman, wise, silly and had these weird, Coke bottle glasses and she was the first person to say that cliche that you write what you know. Your experiences bleed out into all things. Curation as a conscious thing, it’s a function of how you get from A to B and it seems, again, something that’s sort of like antithetical to what we do.

S: If you’re going to make something, explicitly or implicitly in your decision making, it will reveal something about you because there is authorship in making. What we really take incredibly seriously exists on a craft level because the things that we make are the sum of their parts. No methodology is superior to another but we really enjoy bringing a certain level of intentionality practically speaking. It’s not necessarily like excellence because I think that’s impossible to quantify in a craft but we just really enjoy going in and nerding out about all the different details, which is what people seem to respond to but that’s just how we would do it anyway. It’s not as much of a conscious way of working as much as it is an organic process regardless that feels pretty natural. 

J: Yeah I think curation is the idea of crafting an image and we’re not very interested in that. I think we’re more interested in seeing what inherently comes to us and what the image ends up being versus trying to shape the image in a direction that is ultimately not very natural for us to exist in. If we end up having an image that’s lame or whatever people interpret then that’s what we are, that’s what we have. To fight against that is silly because you can’t be anything other than who you are. Ultimately the sum of those things is like what we interpret as curation.

«It’s not about crafting a thing, it’s more about just putting the thing as it already exists, it out there.»

Yeah it’s an openness to vulnerability, to share, to be honest. What is your relationship to vulnerability in relation to masculinity? Not just in your work but in your personal life and identities as well.

J: Masculinity as it is defined is a societal term. We see James Bond and we think that’s what a man’s supposed to be — but the only reason why we think that is because someone told us that that’s what a man is supposed to be like, right? It’s not like there’s an inherent masculine quality.

S: What’s really beautiful too about the way we work is that most of the stuff that we do involves the making of it for and with someone else; and that collaborative nature is the most exciting aspect of what we do. But yeah sure the emotionality might be considered antithetical to prototypical “masculinity” During a very short window of time, we are able to form an incredibly intense connection with someone and that has a certain degree of a vulnerability built into it. We’re able to step into other people’s worlds and learn to exist in their universe. Entering into that space requires you have openness, empathy and compassion for who they are. It’s a lot of sensitivity, a lot of humility, a lot of leaving your own ego and their own preconceptions of you at the door. Collaborating internationally with such a wide number of people has yielded this beautiful result of mapping a three dimensional understanding of the world through what we do. 

J: I also think vulnerability is ground zero, right? Like emotion, earnestness and trying to be honest are the only things that anyone can try to do with any of this stuff. Emotional vulnerability is kind of like the same thing as saying you’re telling the truth, right? Vulnerability is a universal language. Telling the truth is a universal language. Simon and I tend to think that people are a lot smarter than a lot of people give them credit for and I think bullshit is immediately detected. You know when something is lying to you. People are emotionally vulnerable about the things that are specific to them and the more that you can identify with someone’s specific emotions, weirdly enough, you end up speaking to a larger group of people. Specificity is the heart of universality. the more that you can communicate honestly on a very rudimentary level, the more universal you get. I think this kind of understanding is something that we like as part of our philosophy for the time being.

Right and I literally had those same thoughts in my notes: specificity as universality. But in regards to your process, knowing that you guys try to pre-visualize everything, is this where specificity comes in and are you only specific to ensure a certain result? I can imagine that things have a way of manifesting differently quite often.

J: We make plans so we can break from them. Plans are like shopping lists. You make a good plan, you get all the ingredients on the list, you know whatever meal it is that you’re going to make is going to be tasty, nutritious or whatever it is that you’re going for. But then you go to the store and you see something that’s in a season, it’s better, and you want to incorporate it because you’re acting in the moment and seeing something new. 

S: Yeah I think it’s just as simple as preparation in your mind’s eye can only come so close to the living, breathing reality of making something. Whenever you’re on set there is this really heightened awareness that everyone has. We have this limited window of time to make something and that kind of situation breeds a certain energy where people are reacting to a very real set of circumstances that go beyond words on a page or images in a bank of references.

«It’s really all about being able to have a clear vision for what it can be but also being open-minded enough to completely let go of that when it’s unfolding before your eyes.»

It’s interesting that you mentioned the word authentic because it has become such a buzzword throughout agencies and industries alike. You’ve worked with big name talents like Offset, Solange and Pyer Moss for established companies like CR Fashionbook, Calvin Klein and Reebok who have clear visions and metrics for success. How do you approach these projects that are so ROI driven with honesty, openness and vulnerability being your ethos? Do they always work with or against each other?

S: I think a really important thing to know is that film inherently is contrived; especially if you’re talking about a big campaign like some of the ones you mentioned. For example we did a campaign with Moncler and you’re talking about over 100 people behind the camera, trucks backed up outside the studio. There’s no illusion that when you walk on set we’re going to somehow mold it to feel real. The way that I think about it is that everyone at all times is performing, consciously or unconsciously. I don’t think that there is necessarily this fight between the real you and the performative you. I think we’re all in some state of performing to try to engage with whatever the thing is that we’re in communication with. Just recording human behavior at the end of the day. 

J: At one point a year or so ago, we kind of looked at each other and realized that while there’s a certain minimum level of talent threshold, beyond that it’s more so about who you are as a person. When we were younger we tried to talk shop with creative directors, artists and brands and ended up figuring out that they way more interested in things like what restaurants we really liked, or an album we thought was cool and it ended up being a lot more about identifying with people on a personal level than the technical aspects of making a film. People like Quentin Tarantino or John Waters are very specific personalities and they get very specific things from people and not necessarily for any craft reason. They are this person and rather than try to act against who they are, they try to act into it and that’s how they get all this interesting stuff that we are so captivated by as a society. It’s much more about who you are as a person than being talented.

«The talent lies in the response you get from the people around you to who you are.»

You guys are talking so much about relationships with people but obviously we have to focus on the one that is right here, the one that exists between you guys. To what extent do you guys see each other as mirrors for one another?

S: We often joke about the ideation process as creative arm wrestling because we both see the world differently. At a certain point we gave up trying to pull the other person into our world and started to embrace the weird intersection of these two distinct world-views and creative energies and realized that the thing that we’re making, neither of us can make individually. Oftentimes things that are seemingly at odds with each other aren’t allowed to co-exist or come together and we like challenging that. As Jason said, we’re best friends and a big part of it too just having a lot of fun. We’ve learned to trust and respect the weird collaborative energy.

J: You inevitably become a mirror for each other. Simon’s qualities and my qualities become reflected in each other. There’s a real serious emotional support system that almost supersedes everything else. It’s caring for this person as a human being and then also caring about them in a creative aspect. Simon has my back, Simon would jump in front of a train for me and I would jump in front of a train for him and it goes beyond being creatively interested in something. It goes to a sense of love and that’s a unique part about what we have for each other. I think that that makes the work specific, maybe not better, but it makes it specific. I’m very proud of that specificity in our work.

That’s beautiful. To what extent you guys think empathy is a choice and how do you choose it every day?

S: One story I think a lot about involves the writer of Jurassic Park and his agent who came to visit him when he was terminally ill. The parting words of the writer were, if you want to be happy, the easiest way is to not think about yourself. I don’t know how you recalibrate your way of being, that’s a relatively hard thing to do, particularly as you get older. Solipsism, prioritizing oneself over others is a sure way to fall into a lot of really unfruitful and unhealthy feelings like envy, or lack of worth that in turn lead to difficulty with self-love. If you realize that the internal self is a very fixed thing that isn’t necessarily susceptible to all of the energy outside of you, you can create a sort of force field for yourself. I think anything that you see or feel negatively about in another person is really just a reflection of something that you see in yourself that you don’t like. I’m not saying I’m an expert on this or anything like that but I think it’s important to remember is that life’s hard, we’re all fragile, we’re all struggling and we have to use these truths as a bridge between people.

J: My simple addition to this is that I think empathy is a function of age. My dad, who I love a lot, is a very selfish person but to be fair to him and to everybody, inevitably we all only have our own eyes to see the world through, making empathy a choice. He acts in his own self-interest by caring about others. His empathy is a function of his selfishness, in a strange way. I don’t think altruism exists but as you get older, you see more things. I really hope that I am three times as empathetic as I am now when I’m 75. As a young person, it’s really easy to see our whole lives in front of us and to be very aware of that and thus care a lot about ourselves and I don’t think there’s anything wrong with that. We are the only things any of us really have physically. But as Simon said on your deathbed, you can’t stack your money and fall asleep on it, you can’t take it with you. Inevitably the only thing you have is your relationships with people. It’s not the number in your bank account, it’s the number of people at your funeral. Hopefully it grows with age, hopefully with more intelligence and the more things you know, the more you end up realizing that caring about other people is the same thing as caring about yourself.

Credits

www.rubber.band.com
www.instagram.com/jasonfilmore
www.instagram.com/simondavisfilms
www.instagram.com/_rubberband
https://vimeo.com/422144005?embedded=true&source=vimeo_logo&owner=45274582

rubberband. is a directing duo comprised of Jason Filmore Sondock + Simon Davis, operating out of New York City. They met in NYU Tisch’s Kanbar Institute of Film and TV in 2011 and have been directing to together under the moniker since the end of 2015.

Their commercial work includes work for clientele such as Under Armour, Calvin Klein, Fender, Moncler, LIFEWTR, Burberry, Away, Raf Simons, and Alexander Wang. While their music work has included artists LCD Soundsystem, glass animals, Goldlink, ZHU, Alunageorge, and Bryson Tiller.

Their commitment to soulful, earnest filmmaking and forward thinking aesthetic design has garnered them attention from major publications (Rolling Stone, Huff Post, Buzzfeed, Hero Magazine, Last Mag, King Kong, Hypebeast, Complex, The Fader, Dazed, and I-D Mag) and garnered many festival selections (SXSW, LAFF, Cleveland, Sur e’Art Montreal, SUFF, and many others) and awards. 

Weng Jui Kun

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