Archive page:



Bobby Buddy

Youth is a State of Mind


Team

Photography · BOBBY BUDDY
Fashion · VICTOIRE SEVENO at KAPTIVE Hair KEVIN ROUX
Make-Up · AURELIA LIANSBERG at WISE AND TALENTED
Casting Director · REMI FELIPE
Models · AXELLE DOUE, CYRUS AMINI, GINETTE MENDES, ZIYI HE & RAPHAEL DUMAS 
Fashion Assistant · ANJA PITT AND VALENTINE SEVENO
Special Thanks to · CAROLE CONGOS at KAPTIVE and MARINE at E-STUDIO


Designers

  1. Jacket BESFXXK Shoes LANVIN Tights CALZEDONIA
  2. Sweater LANVIN Trench Arthur Avellano
  3. Shirt and Trousers DRIES VAN NOTEN   Shoes KENZO
  4. Jacket and Trousers KENZO Top NEHERA   Shoes ROMBAUT Sunglasses G.O.D EYEWEAR
  5. Jacket BARRIE Shoes ROMBAUT
  6. Necklace TOM VAN DER BORGHT Trench VIRGINIE
  7. Full Look MIU MIU
  8. Shirt KOLOR Ties CHARVET Shoes KENZO
  9. Coat TOM VAN DER BORGHT Shoes CROC’S
  10. Coat TOM VAN DER BORGHT Shoes CROC’S

Michele Yong

Trapped


Team

Photography · MICHELE YONG
Fashion · MIREY ENVEROVA
Creative Direction · NIMA HABIBZADEH and JADE REMOVILLE
Art Direction · LAURA GAVRILENKO
Hair · MAYU MORIMOTO  
Make-Up · MIKI MATSUNAGA
Model · EMNA SELLIMI at MARILYN
PRODUCTION THIRTEENTH PRODUCTION


Designers

  1. Top ISSEY MIYAKE Panties ERES Shoes PRADA Socks FALKE Earrings Model’s Own
  2. Leather Bra DROME Trousers LANVIN Shoes PRADA Earrings Model’s Own
  3. Full Look PRADA Earrings Model’s Own
  4. Leather Bra DROME Dress and Shoes MM6 by MAISON MARGIELA
  5. Dress MIU MIU Shoes CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN Socks FALKE Earrings Model’s Own
  6. Top and Trousers DROME Shoes MM6 BY MAISON MARGIELA Necklace (worn as a belt) CHANEL
  7. Dress JIL SANDER Shoes GUCCI Hold-Ups FALKE  Earrings Model’s Own
  8. Dress ACNE STUDIOS Shoes CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN Panties ERES Earrings Model’s Own
  9. Leather Bra DROME Trousers LANVIN Shoes PRADA  Earrings Model’s Own
  10. Full Look PRADA Earrings Model’s Own
  11. Leather Bra DROME Dress and Shoes MM6 by MAISON MARGIELA
  12. Dress MIU MIU Shoes CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN Socks FALKE Earrings Model’s Own
  13. Dress JIL SANDER Shoes GUCCI Hold-Ups FALKE Earrings Model’s Own
  14. Dress ACNE STUDIOS Shoes CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN Panties ERES Earrings Model’s Own

Matthieu Delbreuve

The Office


Team

Photography · Matthieu Delbreuve 
Fashion · Mirey Enverova
Hair · Mayu Morimoto  
Make-Up Emilie Plume 
Casting · Remi Felipe
Model · Caroline Reuter at OUI MANAGEMENT



Designers

  1. Swimsuit ISA BOULDER Sunglasses PAWAKA
  2. Hat KENZO Shirt LOU DE BETOLY Coat LANVIN Shoes MM6 by MAISON MARGIELA
  3. Trousers MUGLER Shirt Accessory VALETTE STUDIO
  4. Full Look SACAI
  5. Gloves ISA BOULDER Vest VALETTE STUDIO Skirt MM6 by MAISON MARGIELA
  6. Shawl LOU DE BETOLY
  7. Shirt KOCHÉ
  8. Blazer MUGLER Shirt Accessory VALETTE STUDIO Leggings VIRGINIE JEMMELY   Shoes LANVIN Sunglasses ANDY WOLF
  9. Blazer GAUCHERE Shawl LOU DE BETOLY Skirt CHAEWON SONG Shoes ABRA
  10. Dress ISA BOULDER Shirt DRIES VAN NOTEN

Virginia Arcaro

“I learned to rediscover myself, my body and my mind through photography”

Virginia Arcaro is a visual artist whose work spans the realms of painting, collage and photography and explores personal connections with contemporary culture, art and high fashion. Working with the likes of Dior Homme, Acne Studios, Arcaro’s editorials integrate elements of fashion and art history with her own personal vision. The result is an impressive and authentic body of work that is sleek and carefully considered. Arcaro’s practice draws inspiration from a range of subcultures and the limitless potential of photography as a medium.

NR looks into Arcaro’s influences and creative process across both her personal and editorial work to learn more about their artistic production. 

You have a really interesting body of work that ranges from high fashion to more intimate, personal pieces. What have been some of your favourite photography projects to work on? 

Definitely the projects in which I had the freedom to express myself and my creative vision without many boundaries and limits. And those in which I tried to simultaneously blur and establish the lines between art and fashion.  

How did you start getting into photography? 

Since I was very young, I’ve always had my camera with me. I was constantly shooting. It has always been a passion. On a professional level, I started immediately after graduating from the Academy of Fine Arts, collaborating with my boyfriend at that time, shooting the collections of his brand and also curating the creative direction of every photographic project with him. Soon after, I started working as a backstage photographer during fashion shows in Milan, Paris and London, and at the same time I was shooting editorials for magazines and commercial works for various luxury brands.  

How much does fashion influence your work and creative process? 

Fashion is both a means of expression and a source of inspiration. It definitely affects me a lot, but not so much to overwhelm my creative process. When I started working in fashion, I was quite clueless about how complex the industry was. Working in the field and having had the opportunity to meet and collaborate with so many different people helped me learn a lot. I feel honoured and will forever be grateful to have had the opportunity to document the incredible work of designers I love and admire. 

What has impacted your creative vision the most? 

My background and cultural experiences, music, my love for rebellious youth cultures and subcultures – when they could still be defined as such. And having studied art history for years, I can’t deny that traditions and classical references also played an important role in impacting my vision.  

What people and places do you draw the most inspiration from? 

From authentic people, radically different people, confident outsiders. I’m inspired by any place I have a connection with – a connection that is not only physical but also mental. From all the places I’m sentimentally attached to for some reason. 

How have you managed to stay present and creative during the past year? 

Last year was surreal, but I think it had a positive impact on my life and it helped me a lot on a creative level. My job has always led me to travel continuously, and I’ve always loved traveling in my free time too. I had to learn to stop and be in one place for months, so I had time to recharge, time to reflect and time to develop new creatives projects. I learned to rediscover myself, my body and my mind through photography, immersing myself deeply in the essence of art.

How do you choose your subjects and the people you photograph? 

Each person is unique, and I choose them for different reasons. There’s no rule. I understand immediately when I like a subject. 

Is there a main message you want to say with your more personal photographs, or do you find it’s more of a relaxed and natural process? 

It’s a combination of both. I feel it’s a natural process for me to shoot something with a meaning, or a plurality of meanings. Each image contains messages and symbols that lead to a different dialogue. Interpret as you will. 

Virginia Arcaro’s work has been featured in Dazed Digital, AnOther Magazine, Vogue Paris, Vogue Italia, Vogue UK, Harper’s Bazaar UK, Highsnobiety and more.

Arcaro’s work can be found here virginiaarcaro.com

Jenn Kang

Journey

Team

Photography JENN KANG Fashion TRUDY NELSON Hair ANDRES COPELAND Make-Up WENDY MARTINEZ Model MICHI DELANE Photo Assistant ALEX FOSTER  Fashion Assistant REGINA DONALD

Designers

  1. Top AMI Trousers LANVIN Shoes SUICOKE Ring LEIGH MILLER Earring and Necklace LOREN STEWART
  2. Halter VERA WANG Skirt SYSTEM T-Shirt and Boots MARYAM NASSIR ZADEH Ring LEIGH MILLER Earring and Necklace LOREN STEWART
  3. Dress MARYAM NASSIR ZADEH Jacket NANUSHKA Boots REIKE NEN Jewellery KATHLEEN WHITAKER
  4. Dress NANUSHKA Boots MARYAM NASSIR ZADEH Necklaces LOREN STEWART Ring LEIGH MILLER
  5. Dress JACQUEMUS Shoes REIKE NEN   Necklace LOREN STEWART
  6. Blazer JACQUEMUS Shirt GUCCI Jeans THE ATTICO Shoes REIKE NEN Rings LEIGH MILLER and LOREN STEWART Necklace LOREN STEWART Earrings LEIGH MILLER
  7. Full Look CHLOÉ
  8. Top AMI Trousers LANVIN Shoes SUICOKE Ring LEIGH MILLER Earring and Necklace LOREN STEWART
  9. Halter VERA WANG Skirt SYSTEM T-Shirt and Boots MARYAM NASSIR ZADEH Ring LEIGH MILLER Earring and Necklace LOREN STEWART
  10. Dress MARYAM NASSIR ZADEH Jacket NANUSHKA Boots REIKE NEN Jewellery KATHLEEN WHITAKER
  11. Dress NANUSHKA Boots MARYAM NASSIR ZADEH Necklaces LOREN STEWART Ring LEIGH MILLER
  12. Dress JACQUEMUS  Shoes REIKE NEN   Necklace LOREN STEWART
  13. Blazer JACQUEMUS Shirt GUCCI Jeans THE ATTICO Shoes REIKE NEN Rings LEIGH MILLER and LOREN STEWART Necklace LOREN STEWART Earrings LEIGH MILLER
  14. Full Look CHLOÉ

Helene Sandberg

Evolve

Team

Photo · HELENE SANDBERG
Fashion ·  TARA GREVILLE
Hair · AKIKO KAWASAKI  
Make-Up · MARTINA LATTANZI using CHANEL Rouge Coco Bloom and CHANEL le lift Lotion
Nails Martina Lattanzi using CHANEL Le Vernis Ballerina and CHANEL La Crème Main
Casting Director · TROY WESTWOOD
Model · Aishwarya Gupta at VIVA


Designers

  1. Full Look LOUIS VUITTON
  2. Full Look ISSEY MIYAKE
  3. Full Look BARBARA BUI Shoes Stylist’s Own
  4. Jacket and Bodysuit GAUCHERE Trainers LOUIS VUITTON
  5. Shirt GAUCHERE Coat MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION
  6. Shirt GAUCHERE Coat MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION
  7. Full Look JIL SANDER
  8. Full Look BARBARA BUI Shoes Stylist’s Own
  9. Full Look EMILIO DE LA MORENA
  10. Full Look CHLOÉ
  11. Full Look EMILIO DE LA MORENA
  12. Full Look BARBARA BUI Shoes Stylist’s Own
  13. Top LES FRIDAY Jacket and Trousers BARBARA BUI Trainers LOUIS VUITTON
  14. Top and Skirt ROKSANDA Shoes CLARKS ORIGINALS x SPORTY AND RICH

Artem Kononenko

Ambivalent

Photographer Artem Kononenko captures Lucie and Bintou for online. Featuring looks from Roger Vivier, Azzaro and more


Credits

Photography · Artem Kononenko
Creative Direction · Plamena Karaliyska Fashion Belishi
Make Up · Olga Kruglova Hair Mayu Marimoto
Models · Lucie At Women Management And Bintou At Supreme
Location · Presswall Studios

Tess Roby

Abstractions of Daily Life and Subtle Portraiture

These photographs were taken in Montreal, Toronto, Los Angeles, Venice, and Washington State between 2017 and 2020. Shown together, they share what Roby is most drawn to in photography: abstractions of daily life and subtle portraiture. Gathered over time, her photographs ethereally capture her movements, presenting minute everyday occurrences that blur visual boundaries.

Lyndon French

The Mysteries of the Secrets

Credits

Images · LYNDON FRENCH
https://lyndonfrench.com/

Rick Schatzberg

“conversations helped to create the atmosphere I needed to portray vulnerability”

Rick Schatzberg grew up in a suburb of Long Island in the 1950s – a place constructed out of nothing but a post-war optimism for prosperity and abundance. A place that, by Rick’s own admission, was in reality, characterised by its monotony and it’s ‘nowhereness’. Surrounded by the comfort of middle class living, Rick and his friends discovered the world by hanging out in one another’s bedrooms, the local mall or a wooded area not far from their suburban enclave. As teenagers, the boys (as they came to be known amongst themselves) would experiment with alcohol and drugs, and hang out with girls; an upbringing unremarkable to anyone who wasn’t there at the time. As they grew older, the boys took on different careers. Rick moved to New York and became an entrepreneur, the others would become teachers, taxi drivers, salesmen, realtors and healthcare workers But they remained what Rick calls a ‘cohesive entity,’ eternally bound together by their childhood moniker.

The Boys, the second photobook by Rick Schatzberg, is the result of both his pivot into photography and the unexpected death of two of his friends in close succession. Confronted with the fragility of life, Rick began in earnest to take photographs of the remaining boys. Using a large format camera, the images of himself and his friends, now in their mid-60s, are a stark reminder of the passage of time. In and of themselves, Rick’s photographs are tender portraits capturing the toll of time and age on the human body. But in the book, these images are interspersed with snapshots and photographs from the boys’ youth. Aged bodies become youthful, smiling faces – hanging out, experimenting with weed. Though Rick is quick to outline that The Boys isn’t nostalgic, there’s something poignant in flicking through the book’s pages and recognising the quirks and characteristics of each of the boys as time passes by. Addressing the responses he’s had so far about the book, Rick sums this feeling up well in our interview below: ‘anemoia: nostalgia for a time or place you’ve never known’. Many of the old photographs included in the book are snapshots that had been forgotten about – forgotten in the almost immediate aftermath that they were taken. They raise questions of memory; can the boys even recall the time and place that the photograph puts them in?

Alongside the images, old and now, are twelve short texts. One is an email exchange between Rick and two of the boys trying to piece together the facts of a fight that happened at a wedding. Their recollections of what actually occurred differ; evidence of the unreliability of memory. To celebrate the release of the book, Rick spoke in conversation with the photography writer and curator, David Campany in early 2021. As well as discussing the subject matter of The Boys, something that came up as crucial to the book’s release is its design. As part of the book launch, Rick shared a video of himself going through the book to demonstrate that the large format photographs of his friends feature as fold out pages (something, he tells the audience via Zoom, his mentors and peers from his photography course advised against). But something that also stands out in the structure of the book is that the 12 texts Rick includes in The Boys read like snapshots themselves.

An accompanying essay to the book by the writer, Rick Moody, raises this point, writing about the ‘relationship between a still image and the kind of expressive power that we associate with narrative activity.’ In the context of The Boys, as a photobook, this takes on historical significance. Writing about the 1920s, a time of the proliferation of the photobook and the photo essay, the academic Andreas Huyssen describes how a new form of literature appeared.

The “modernist miniature”, popularised by novelists like Franz Kafka and critical thinkers like Walter Benjamin, sought to capture modern life with photographic precision through words. In that way, then, Rick’s book is much more than a selection of photographs of his peers – young and now old – it’s a reckoning with how we navigate time, memory and our existence through the lens of modern life.

How did your experience of studying photography influence The Boys?

My work on The Boys was influenced by my art school education in several ways. To begin with, the photography MFA program I was enrolled in at Hartford University, Connecticut, is heavily focused on photobooks, and I went knowing I’d be making one. I thought I already knew a fair amount about photobooks, but the breadth of what I was exposed to by teachers, guest artists, and student colleagues was eye-opening. I had to examine my motivations to make any work and to think about how I would make a book that wasn’t just a collection of interesting pictures, but something with substance and depth.

In grad school, one of the challenges of making work that you hope to eventually present to the world is interpreting and deciding what to do with the near constant feedback you receive. You go to art school to not be limited by your inclinations. But there’s also the danger of gearing your work for approval of teachers and fellow students. In the end, I had to absorb what was helpful and discard what wasn’t; making that distinction was sometimes a confusing struggle. 

At the virtual launch, you emphasised that this book had to be universal, and not nostalgic. What feedback have you had from people about The Boys? Does it differ from the boys themselves, those who come from the same place/time, and those with no real connection to the American suburb?

For me, the work is not really nostalgic; I feel that the almost forensic nature of the large format portraits grounds the work in the present. But I may have overstated my case against nostalgia a bit. The feedback has been consistent in that the work evokes an emotional response, which I find very gratifying. But judging from what people have written or told me, the way into the work has really varied. For some, the immediate connection is nostalgia for their youth or that time or place. For others, typically younger readers and often European, it may be anemoia: nostalgia for a time or place you’ve never known. (Like films and novels, photography is good at evoking this.) I’ve heard from people for whom the portrayal of enduring friendship was the hook, and after reading the book they either felt the urge to reach out to friends they have not been so attentive to or lamented that they didn’t have friendships that lasted into adulthood.

Obviously, this work is radically specific: a very particular group of white guys of a particular generation, raised in a very particular American suburban community.

“From the outset though, my feeling was that if this work isn’t felt to be universal then it’s a failure. Mortality, after all, is the bedrock of our biology.”

You mentioned the importance of collaboration in making the book – did this collaboration extend to your friends? Or did they feature just as subjects? Why did you use a large format camera for the portraits? 

I discussed the deeper underlying themes of the project – aging, loss, memory, mortality, friendship – with my friends during our photo sessions. Though my directions for posing were minimal, these conversations helped to create the atmosphere I needed to portray vulnerability. I also explained that I planned to use the work as the basis of my master’s thesis so they understood that there would be a critical audience for the work beyond our circle. Their attitudes went from gracious acceptance to genuine interest. It was as though they became partners with a stake in the outcome.

“It was clear that I would be making unheroic portraits that might not be flattering, and they understood there was good reason for doing so.”

The word that often came to mind in these photo sessions was ceremonial. Using a 4×5 film camera, with all its fussy rituals and storied traditions, felt performative and serious. The slow, cumbersome, and mysterious (to my subjects) process helped amplify the psychological intensity surrounding the project. In the face of our brothers’ deaths, together we were creating a formal certificate of presence (to use Roland Barthe’s expression), using traditional tools.

That said, it is was not a true collaboration because the power to select specific portraits for use in the book was mine alone. My friends did not even see the images I was choosing between, nor did they know how I would ultimately deploy the portraits in the book. They trusted me. It was important to assert my authorial voice, but without entirely drowning out the voices of my friends, which they asserted through the written word, their snapshots, and their gestures in the portraits.

We’re faced with the processes of ageing, time and mortality in The Boys – when returning to your childhood home and neighbourhood for the book, had the nowhere place you came from aged too?

In the winter, with the trees bare, the neighborhood looks very much like it did 50 years ago. In the warmer months the trees, mature and leafy, give the neighborhood a homier, more established feel. The automobiles in front of many of the homes are now more numerous and luxurious, probably more a sign of growing consumer credit and a shift in values than of greater wealth.

The short texts in The Boys read like snapshots, how and why did you choose the texts you include?

I was interested in constructing narratives to loosely link text and images that would stand as discrete memories – not stories as such but fragments that help tell the larger story. I chose to write short texts that could function in different ways: sometimes straight narrative; sometimes like vague, recovered memories; sometimes as meditations; and sometimes more as dream than narrative. The one outlier is the story about my father. I didn’t initially think to include this in the book. I was having a conversation with my editor and I related the story to her.

“She told me to write it down and as soon as I did, I knew it belonged in the book.”

In his essay, Rick Moody refers to a good photograph as one left in a drawer for 30 years. Did the archives of photographs of yourself and the Boys ever come to light in the intervening years leading up to the making of this book? If so, in what circumstances?

Several of the snapshots have been circulating for ten years or so on social media. Others, which I found loosely strewn in boxes stored away for years, may have been passed around shortly after they were taken but were mostly forgotten. Time conferred poignancy as Rick Moody describes, but curating enlarged full-bleed versions astride pictures of old men and stories of death, makes new meaning. Even the more familiar old snapshots felt like new discoveries.

Credits

Images · RICK SCHATZBERG
https://rickschatzberg.com/

Subscribe to our
Newsletter