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Bergrstand and Duljak

Augustin and Luca

Team

Photography · Niklas Bergrstand and Mateja Duljak
Fashion · Arthur Mayadoux
Make-Up · Rikke Dengse Jensen   
Hair · Nicolas Philippon
Fashion Assistant · Victoire Seveno
Models · Augustin and Luca from Success Models


Designers

  1. Top ISSEY MIYAKE MEN Coat DIESEL BLACK GOLD
  2. Luca wears Sweater JITROIS Augustin wears Jumpsuit VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
  3. Jacket BALLY Shirt DRIES VAN NOTEN Trousers ISSEY MIYAKE MEN
  4. Top ISSEY MIYAKE MEN Shorts DIESEL BLACK GOLD
  5. Jacket FAITH CONNEXION
  6. Augustin wears Trench ACNE STUDIOS Shorts DIESEL BLACK GOLD Shoes PIERRE HARDY Luca wears Jogger LUCIEN PELLAT FINET
  7. Tracksuit KOCHE Boots DR MARTENS
  8. Trench DRIES VAN NOTEN Shorts ARTHUR AVELLANO Briefs ACNE STUDIOS Shoes PIERRE HARDY
  9. Shirt DRIES VAN NOTEN Jacket BALLY
  10. Augustin wears Jumper VIVIENNE WESTWOOD Trousers KENZO Luca wears Jacket ISSEY MIYAKE MEN Trousers LANVIN
  11. Luca wears Jumper KENZO Jogger LACOSTE Sneakers ADIDAS Augustin wears Tracksuit KOCHE Boots DR MARTENS

Moses Sumney

“Maybe because the sun is not shining, people are more moody, they’re more in their feelings”

“I felt like all my career I’ve been waiting in the wings,” Moses Sumney tells me over the phone from Paris. “And it’s really nice to see the music get out there and reach people that aren’t just me.” While the 28-year-old American artist has been quietly making waves with his live performances and material for some time, putting out self-recorded Mid-City Island in 2014 followed by Lamentations in 2016, it wasn’t until September last year his first full length album, Aromanticism, finally brought his talent fully into the limelight. Born in San Bernardino, he moved with his parents to Ghana at the age of 10 before returning to the US to study. He recorded in his bedroom, taught himself guitar and first performed at the age of 20. For Sumney, releasing his debut album marks the culmination of a long process of overcoming shyness and being “diligent and persistent” to bring his songwriting out into the world: “There have been a million challenges. I have so many even now. But I felt this was always what I was meant to do, so nothing was going to deter me from doing it.” The persistence certainly paid off, with Aromanticism being launched to great critical acclaim, including being named one of the best albums of 2017 by the New York Times and Rolling Stone.

Characterised by Sumney’s haunting vocals and searching lyrics, the album purposefully meditates on a central topic, something he felt would be important to “make the project feel cohesive”: “I decided sonically it needed to feel intimate but expansive. And lyrically and thematically it needed to be about one thing, which ended up being Aromanticism.” The cryptic title alludes to a personal sense Sumney had of his own experience and understanding of love lacking in mainstream representation: “I wanted to explore broader definitions of the word love but also the cracks and crevices of loneliness as well as lovelessness and, more specifically, the absence of romantic love. Most literature, art, music felt like it was engaging with love in a two-dimensional way and I wanted to explore how complex it was.” As he outlines in an essay published at the same time as his album, discussing Greek mythology and the origins of love, he doesn’t see his reflections as rooted only in the contemporary: “These feelings around love don’t start here. People have felt lonely essentially since the beginning of time, there are records of people wanting to be married and not getting the chance to for as long as we’ve had the ability to read.” Rather our modern condition, propelling us inexorably to seek out and find contentment through love and coupledom, and fear our failure, is further exaggerated by the internet: “One of the hallmarks of being a young person alive presently is you think that everything that is happening to you or to your generation is incredibly unique. We tend to navel gaze a lot. But it’s important to recognise our prevailing feelings around love and romance are pre-existing.”

“It’s just the internet era tends to heighten everything, to amplify and augment feelings, cultural movements and observations.”

Informed by his time spent studying literature and writing, there’s an equally academic and poetic approach to delineating emotions that plays out through the album and constantly subverts expectations, each track forming an exploration of a distinct but connected topic to his central thesis. This he feels is best captured in Doomed on which he asks: “If lovelessness is godlessness/Will you cast me to the wayside?” On Plastic he takes aim at how impressions can be out of kilter with reality: “Funny how a stomach unfed/Seems satisfied ‘cause it’s swell and swollen.” His personal favourite Indulge Me meanwhile finds a moment of reconciliation in the wake of bitterness and torment: “All my old lovers have found others,” accepting his past loves have moved on and finding peace in solitude.

Sonically the album is no less idiosyncratic, resisting any easy shoe-horning into a neat genre. Beautifully evocative falsetto and harmonies reach to the rafters with delicacy and calm yet hold a melancholy in their yearning for answers and are pulled back from optimism by a dark undertow of strings and synths. Hypnotic sounds that ebb and flow, crescendo and fall lull the listener deep into what Sumney calls his “sonic dreamscape.” He notes influences stretching back to his time listening to and performing choral music in a high school choir in his late teens. He draws inspiration from jazz via the likes of Ella Fitzgerald and soul from Aretha Franklin and Stevie Wonder. But he also loves folk and indie rock: “It is an amalgamation of different things. The primary tenets of my music are soul and folk and then sprinkle a bit of indie rock, sprinkle a little bit of experimental, sprinkle a little bit of jazz.”

Crucial to his creative output are his otherworldly videos, though he confesses he initially had no interest in the medium: “I never wanted to make music videos, I really hated them growing up and in my early career because I thought they were so boring. Pop videos have so many jump cuts. I have ADHD so it’s really unrelaxing to see all the different ideas flash in front of you.” That all changed on meeting Brooklyn-based Allie Avital, who has now directed or co-directed with Sumney all of his videos – and also convinced him to be in them: “My process is largely attached to her. For at least two of the videos, she came up with the ideas, and for the other two Quarrel and Doomed I did. I have images that flash into my head when I listen to a song, whether an associated colour or an associated scene, so usually I take those ideas and talk to her about them and just flesh them out with her. It’s been an amazing process.”

Now the visual aesthetic is increasingly important to Sumney: “Even when we’re not able to make official videos I try to make a little visualiser for each song on YouTube just so there’s some kind of visual world just attached to it. Listening to the song can give you one meaning of it but then making a visual that can seemingly be semi-detached can help complete the story.” Now there is also a generation often consuming new music for the first time via video: “It’s kind of a great propaganda tool honestly because you can inseminate an image into someone’s mind when they’re hearing something for the first time. You get to control their response to it or at least to an extent their conception of what that music is and what it means. It’s kind of fucked up,” he adds with a laugh. In contrast to the attention-deficit-inducing videos he so hated in pop, his slow-burners each take a seemingly simple concept and execute it in stunning and moving ways. Lonely World takes us to a surreal black and white scene of Sumney coming across a female fish-like creature on a beach. Quarrel is an alternately dreamlike and nightmarish abstract vision of horses. Doomed has Sumney floating in a tank, no mean feat considering Sumney doesn’t know how to swim and had to spend eight hours in the water: “It was nerve wracking but the emotion I was supposed to communicate was one of terror anyway so it was kind of appropriate for me to be scared and uncomfortable.” Sumney further explained the concept, “as a song it is about speaking to God or speaking to the universe and being like, ‘what is the meaning if nobody loves me or if I don’t love anyone.’ It’s engaging with the idea that life sometimes feels like a cruel joke and there’s some higher power or design looking down on us like, ‘Ha ha, that’s funny.’ So I wanted to communicate in the end with the birds eye view, just the idea of looking down at these little rats. It feels like often we’re just like test tube babies with someone vaguely experimenting with us all.” Unexpectedly a seed for the idea was sewn from the final scene in the first Men in Black: “There’s a shot at end where they do this huge zoom out and you see each planet is actually just a marble and there’s these aliens playing with the marbles.”

“It really fucked me up as a child, like ‘oh my god, is someone just playing with my life?’ I wanted to tap into that in Doomed.”

Collaborations have formed a key part of Sumney’s career, including co-producing and singing the opening track on Beck’s covers compilation Song Reader and holding a guest spot on Solange’s A Seat at the Table album. Last year he performed at the Oscar’s alongside Sufjan Stevens and St Vincent on Mystery of Love from Luca Guadagnino’s Call Me by Your Name, nominated for Best Original Song, an experience he live Tweeted to hilarious effect. He tells me: “From the stage I could see Meryl Streep, I could see her. So that was cool, you know, not unnerving at all…” Since Aromanticism’s release he’s also hit a packed schedule of festival and gig dates worldwide including London’s Field Day and Germany’s MELT!, as well as the US’s Coachella and Pitchfork Festival and he sold out Sydney Opera House in February.

Coming out of his shell and putting his work on the stage is something he is still challenged by. On the one hand seeing tracks he wrote and practised in his bedroom move and connect with people who don’t even share his language has been exhilarating, yet hitting new cities every few days has also left him feeling “unbalanced”: “It’s a pretty unnatural thing for a human being to do. So it’s incredibly euphoric but maybe I would better describe it as manic. Sometimes you feel really high, sometimes you feel really low: my mood changes every five minutes. It’s a pretty wild ride but I love singing and I love performing so it feels really good.”

It’s London though that Sumney admits is his favourite place to be and play: “People on this side of the world tend to embrace experimentation a lot better than where I’m from, better than Los Angeles especially which seems beholden to commercial music tropes often, even in the indie scene. I appreciate in London I have room to be weird, I have room to experiment, I have room to be soulful. Maybe because the sun is not shining people are more moody, they’re more in their feelings,” he says, only half-jokingly.

A move away from his home country he also reflects is to do with a detachment from the political situation there, one he sees has been deteriorating for much of his adult life: “It feels pretty futile to let it upset me. Since last year I’ve been spending most of my time in Europe and most of that in England. I think I’ve been through so many phases of being enraged that sometimes I take a little break, which I’m doing now, and then I just focus on music which helps me feel better, balanced, cleansed, sane. Maybe it is a bit escapist.”

Cognisant of the fact that the industry doesn’t allow complacency, since the album’s launch he has also released extended version Make Out in My Car: Chameleon Suite with various reimaginings of the original track, including a duet with Alex Isley, a James Blake remix and a new song based on the original by Sufjan Stevens. Most recently in August came three-track EP Black in Deep Red, 2014 including Rank & File which holds a fresh energy, with fingers clicks and marching beats reminiscent of military protest. And he’s already been cooking up his next record: ‘It just takes a long time to make an album, you kind of have to get right back in if you want to do it again.” The next one he says, “is going to be louder and crazier, a little bit more experimentation but also a little more focus on the songwriting. I think it will just feel like another step or another chapter to the same book. I feel I have a lot of freedom and can do whatever I want so I’m really just trying to challenge myself to make music that doesn’t sound like everything else.”

He recognises however this is perhaps not the case across the industry: “There could be more room for weird music in the general dialogue. Sometimes I feel like now is a really free moment and then other times I feel the internet is making everything be one big amalgamated sound. It has opened things up more so that you don’t need to be backed by a huge record label. But I don’t feel things are diverse enough.”

“Even when weirdos come into the mix there has to be an element of familiarity to what they do in order for it to connect or be shared and pitched to the masses. I think that blocks diversity from being genuine.”

In particular, he warns that an impression of greater diversity can hide a lack of true progression: “I feel this current moment, this generation is a little bit too like, ‘let’s pat ourselves on the back, there’s a black person singing.’ Like, ‘cool, good on us.’ And I think that self-congratulatory attitude has a tendency to stifle growth. I’m not ever really going to be the kind of person that’s going to say ‘there’s enough women playing guitars.’ I’m like, ‘there’s two. So let’s calm down.’”

Credits

Photography · Aaron Sinclair
Photo Assistant · Brandon Bowen
Fashion · Phil Gomez
Talent · Moses Sumney
Words · Sarah Bradbury

Designers

  1. Hat CANDICE CUOCO Sunglasses and Coat Artist’s own
  2. Coat CAMOUFLAGE Vest and trousers RESURRECTION

Terry O’Neill

“Sometimes the best shots are the ones you are lucky to catch”

When thinking of some of the iconic stars of the 20th century, it’s likely that an equally iconic photograph of them has been taken by Terry O’Neill. Having inadvertently found himself at the epicentre of the glitz of the swinging sixties, O’Neill cut his teeth amongst the Beatles and the Rolling Stones.

Born in London, he had wanted to be a jazz drummer, and, accordingly, took a job with British Airways as a photographer, with the ambition of working up to a flight attendant which would have allowed him four days a week on the ground in New York – and a way into the jazz world. Yet, a chance snapshot of a sleeping man, who turned out to be the then-home secretary, RAB Butler, gave O’Neill an unlikely way into photography. His embracing of an emerging youth culture is a testament to his distinctive eye; working ahead of the curve, both his subjects and images alike would come to have resounding influence.

Over the course of a luminous career, O’Neill has worked with legendary names – from Frank Sinatra, and Audrey Hepburn – to David Bowie and Nelson Mandela. Across an extensive oeuvre, the unique partnering of star power with the quality behind the persona conjure up a bewildering sense of awe. Behind the glamour, though, lies the pragmatism of O’Neill himself. 

NR: Of all the photographs you’ve taken over the years, is there one that stands out as a personal favourite?

Terry O’ Neill: I think it’s Sinatra on the Boardwalk (1968) – that was the first time I met Frank Sinatra. I already knew Ava [Gardner], and told her I was headed down to Miami to work with her ex-husband – she said, “I’ll write you a letter.”  So I go down to Miami and I’m waiting for Sinatra to arrive. I look up and see these men approaching, and I started to take pictures. Sinatra and his guys came right up to me, and I nervously handed Frank the letter. He read it, looked and me and said to his boys, “it’s okay. He’s with us now.” And that was the start of a long working relationship I developed with him. He was a legend.

Do you ever look back critically on any of your photographs?

Oh, of course. Sometimes when I go into the office and I’m shown the negatives of my work, I’m surprised that I took so many pictures. At the time though, when I was working, I never looked back. I was always looking for the next job. 

Are you always in control of the image you take, or are there incidences where the outcome is entirely accidental?

I think, except for a few, it’s all incidental. I love the work of photographer W. Eugene Smith, and so,

“I was inspired to take photos of what I saw on the street. Sometimes the best shots are the ones you are lucky to catch.”

Is there a certain characteristic you focus on, and like to draw out in your photos?

I wanted to capture the subject just a little off-guard. If not that, I’d try to find that specific moment that defines who they are. With the photo I took of Terence Stamp and Jean Shrimpton, for example, the assignment I was given was to capture the “face of the Sixties”. Theirs were the first two faces that popped into my mind. I decided to get in really close and crop it in, so you are just left with this intense stare. 

How do you control the portrayal of ‘star power’ in your photos of high profile celebrities?

I was never really bothered by all of that. I started out at the same time that many celebrities did too – movie stars, and rock stars. There was only ever one time I was asked to leave, when shooting Steve McQueen. But I did sneak in a few shots beforehand!

In terms of the poses that your subjects adopt, are they agreed upon beforehand – or entirely natural? 

I’ve done both. When I was asked to take photos of the newest Oscars Best Actress winner, I wanted to do something different. I didn’t want the big smile, holding up the award.

“I wanted to know what it looked like the morning after – when it all hits you that you’ve just won an Oscar, and your salary has just gone up by millions.”

I asked Faye [Dunaway] to meet me by the pool of the Beverly Hills Hotel at 6am. I was friends with the guy who ran the pool, and he snuck me in. I set it all up – the papers, the breakfast, the Oscar. And she sat there. Many people consider that photo to be one of the best images of Hollywood.

In the time since you started out, what is the most significant change to take place in terms of celebrity photography?

Selfies! And the fact that stars have too much control over their image now. In order to work with a celebrity, you have to deal with managers, publicists and the managers of the publicists, you have to give up approval and rights. By the time the photograph runs, it doesn’t even look like the person you shot! Everything has been approved by everyone – except for the photographer. In that sense,

“we’ve lost a lot; a lot of great pictures will never be seen, let alone even taken. It’s a shame. Everything is staged and then made to look better. It’s no longer just a great photo of someone.”

You’ve said there is nobody today that you’d want to photograph, what could change your mind on that?

I was very lucky that I worked at a time when stars like Frank Sinatra, Audrey Hepburn, Elizabeth Taylor, The Beatles, even David Bowie, were around. If you invented a time machine and send me back to the ‘60s, then I’d change my mind!

Credits

Terry O’Neill: Rare & Unseen is available now

Photos

  1. Singer and actor Frank Sinatra, with his minders and his stand in (who is wearing an identical outfit to him), arriving at Miami beach while filming, ‘The Lady in Cement’, 1968.
  2. Scottish actor Sean Connery as James Bond taking a bath during the filming of ‘Diamonds Are Forever’, 1971.
  3. American actress Faye Dunaway takes breakfast by the pool with the day’s newspapers at the Beverley Hills Hotel, 29th March 1977. She seems less than elated with her success at the previous night’s Academy Awards ceremony, where she won the 1976 Oscar for Best Actress in a Leading Role for ‘Network’.
  4. Singer David Bowie poses with a large barking dog for publicity shots for his 1974 album ‘Diamond Dogs’ in London.

Mehdi Sef

Simon

Credits

Photography · MEHDI SEF
Fashion · NIMA HABIBZADEH and JADE REMOVILLE
Make-Up · AURÉLIE DELTOUR Hair YUMIKO HIKAGE
Model · SIMON MUCHARDT from Success Models
Location · BETC PARIS

Designers

  1. Coat and Trousers BERLUTI Boots YANG LI
  2. Shirt and Trousers DSQUARED2 Boots YANG LI
  3. Suit EMPORIO ARMANI
  4. Shirt and Trousers DSQUARED2
  5. Full Look WOOYOUNGMI with EMPORIO ARMANI Shoes
  6. Full Look VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
  7. Coat and Trousers BERLUTI Boots YANG LI
  8. Shirt and Trousers SIES MARJAN Boots YANG LI
  9. Jumper and Trousers ROBERTO CAVALLI Shoes EMPORIO ARMANI
  10. Full Look JIL SANDER
  11. Jumper ROBERTO CAVALLI

Toby Coulson

Team

Photography · Toby Coulson
Photo Assistant · Ollo Weguelin
Fashion · Nima Habibzadeh and Jade Removille  
Make-up · Czar Joshua Ventura
Hair · Moe Mukai
Model · Noor Chaltin from The Squad

Designers

  1. Dress Edeline Lee
  2. Trousers and Shoes Filippa K Coat J JS Lee
  3. Full Look Emma Charles
  4. Trousers and Shoes Filippa K Coat J JS Lee
  5. Shirt, Trousers and Coat Y’s Paris Shoes Filippa K
  6. Shirt Roberts|Wood Trousers J JS Lee

Nadia Ryder

Endless

Team

Photography Nadia Ryder
Fashion Nima Habibzadeh and Jade Removille
Hair and Make-Up Jinny Kim
Model Djenice Duarte from Storm Model Management


Designers

  1. Coat and Trousers EMPORIO ARMANI Shoes BOSS
  2. Dress SIMONE ROCHA Boots JIMMY CHOO
  3. Dress ALBERTA FERRETTI
  4. Dress DSQUARED2
  5. Dress DSQUARED2
  6. Dress PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI Boots JIMMY CHOO
  7. Dress ALBERTA FERRETTI Shoes BOSS
  8. Dress MARNI Boots JIMMY CHOO
  9. Full Look ALBERTA FERRETTI
  10. Dress SIMONE ROCHA Boots JIMMY CHOO
  11. Dress PLEATS PLEASE ISSEY MIYAKE Shoes BOSS
  12. Dress PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI

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