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Hugo Huerta Marin

Seven years in the making, ‘Portrait of an Artist’, visit the homes, studios, theatres and galleries of an iconic cast of female artists

Multi-disciplinary artist and graphic designer Hugo Huerta Marin has released ‘Portrait of an Artist: Conversations with Trailblazing Creative Women’, an exceptional new book offering an intimate insight into a stunning selection of pioneering women who have reshaped the creative industries. The Prestel published book brings you face-to-face with a diverse range of figureheads and icons from a spectrum of creative practices, all photographed and interviewed by Marin. In an unseen candid nature we’re introduced to these women in a way like never-before.

The collection of original interviews and Polaroid photographs of almost 30 trailblazing women spans creative industries, nationalities and generations, from legendary visual artists Yoko Ono and Tracey Emin to groundbreaking musicians like Annie Lennox and Debbie Harry, and fashion giants such as Miuccia Prada and Diane von Fürstenberg. Each compelling conversation discusses a range of un-spoken topics, exploring their innovative and ground-braking nature and how their voices resonate throughout the new generation of artists and women around the world.

‘Portrait of an Artist’ shines a light on unique individuality in the arts, adding FKA Twigs, Rei Kawakubo and French actress Isabelle Huppert to the already iconic cast. The book creates both a portrait of each individual woman and collectively a powerful portrait of the impact of women on the creative industries.

Hugo Huerta Marin has spent the last seven years, interviewing, writing and curating ‘Portrait of an Artist’, visiting the homes, studios, theatres and galleries of these incredible female artists, capturing their portraits and stories in environments they felt comfortable and creative. Marin is a multi-disciplinary artist and designer whose work centres on the topics of gender and cultural identity. He works as an art director to Marina Abramović, with whom he has collaborated internationally. Hugo’s solo exhibitions have been featured at The Hole Gallery in New York, Never Apart Gallery in Montreal, and MUAC museum in Mexico City. He was part of the 2019 Casa Nano art residency in Tokyo.

Credits

Discover ‘Portrait of an Artist: Conversations with Trailblazing Creative Women’ here

Aude Le Barbey

Songe À La Douceur

Team

Photographer · AUDE LE BARBEY
Fashion Stylist · PAULINE GROSJEAN
Models · JEANNE GODIN AND CHAN DUTEIL

Designers

  1. Overshirt and Hat LANVIN
  2. Top GAMUT
  3. Bomber jacker DIOR
  4. Sock with zip LARUICCI
  5. Dress ALEXANDRE BLANC
  6. Necklace ACNE STUDIOS
  7. Left Top VITELLI Trousers VAILLANT STUDIO Right Jeans ARTHUR AVELLANO
  8. Top LARUICCI
  9. Sweatshirt LARUICCI

Ottavia Di Leo

Team

Photographer · Ottavia Di Leo
Fashion Stylist · Lorenzo Chiara
Casting Director · Silvia Macchioni
Models · Maria Baza AT Elite Model Milan AND Paola
Makeup and Hair Artist · Manuela Balducci
Nail Artist · Maria Fernanda
Fashion Stylist · Assistant Domiziana Donghia

Designers

  1. Jumpsuit ROBERTO CAVALLI Jacket VERSACE Earrings ROUSSEY Shoes Stylist’s archive
  2. Jacker VERSACE Bag ABRA Top, Turtleneck and Culottes OH CARLA Shoes VERSACE
  3. Dress KENZO Earrings ROUSSEY Boots ABRA
  4. Blazer and Leggings NO DRESS Necklace VERSACE Shoes Stylist’s archive
  5. Top NO DRESS Skirt DIESEL
  6. Shirt DIESEL Top OH CARLA Bag VERSACE Earrings ROUSSEY Shoes Stylist’s archive
  7. Full Look OH CARLA Bracelet VERSACE
  8. Skirt DIESEL Bag and Shoes VERSACE Top NO DRESS Jacket OH CARLA
  9. Top NO DRESS Bag and Boots LANVIN Earrings and Bracelet VERSACE Bikini Stylist’s archive
  10. Blazer NO DRESS Necklace VERSACE
  11. Coat LANVIN Necklace ROUSSEY Boots ABRA
  12. Coat LANVIN Necklace ROUSSEY
  13. Top NO DRESS Bag and Boots LANVIN Earrings and Bracelet VERSACE Bikini Stylist’s archive
  14. Coat LANVIN Necklace ROUSSEY
  15. Full Look VERSACE Bag ABRA
  16. Dress KENZO Earrings ROUSSEY Boots ABRA
  17. Coat LANVIN Necklace ROUSSEY
  18. Shirt DIESEL Top OH CARLA Bag VERSACE Earrings ROUSSEY Shoes Stylist’s archive
  19. Coat LANVIN Necklace ROUSSEY Boots ABRA
  20. Jumpsuit ROBERTO CAVALLI Jacket VERSACE Earrings ROUSSEY Shoes Stylist’s archive
  21. Blazer and Leggings NO DRESS Necklace VERSACE Shoes Stylist’s archive

Yis Kid

Dance!

Team

Photographer · Yis Kid
Fashion Stylist · Saik Gonzalez
Makeup Artist · Elle Mcmahon
Hair Stylist · Asahi Sano
Photography Assistant · Lara Metcalf Fashion Assistant · Alice Secchi
Studio Gas Studio Production Hire
Models · Lara Mcgrath at Nevs Model Agency, Yannis Koba, Emilien Rabin, Hannah Vincent at Diverj Management, Nick Chan, Amphibian, Erin Perise and Margherita Boffetta at Select Model London, Tyreece Daniels at Other Boys Agency and Byul Kim at Img Models


Designers

  1. Top and Trousers DRIES VAN NOTEN
  2. Coat and Trousers VALENTINO
  3. Coat and Trousers STELLA MCCARTNEY
  4. Full Look EMPORIO ARMANI
  5. Dress ERDEM
  6. Jacket and Skirt SIMONE ROCHA Boots LANVIN
  7. Shirt and Trousers DUNHILL
  8. Dress JAIME MORALES CORTES
  9. Dress VALENTINO Boots LANVIN
  10. Dress KENZO
  11. Dress MM6 MAISON MARGIELA Scultpure ‘Orbit’ HENRY GALANO
  12. Full Look MM6 MAISON MARGIELA
  13. Shirt and Trousers EMPORIO ARMANI
  14. Full Look LANVIN

Aude Le Barbey

Clarity

Team

Photo AUDE LE BARBEY Fashion PAULINE GROSJEAN
Models Aline Jan and Adèle Trévilly 


Designers

  1. Ring VIBE HARSLOEF
  2. Body MARIANNA LADREYT Earrings SEBASTIEN JOFFREY MONFORT
  3. Trousers and Turtleneck AWS Bra LOU DE BETOLY Shoes FLAT APARTMENT
  4. Top MARIANNA LADREYT Earrings Stylists Own
  5. Dress MARIANNA LADREYT Knitted Dress GAMUT Boots LE MAUVAIS GARCONS
  6. Dress JOHANNA IMBACH Bangle VIBE HARSLOEF
  7. Earring VIBE HARSLOEF
  8. Turtleneck A/RAISE Jewellery VIBE HARSLOEF

Nicolò Parsenziani

Bottega Veneta

Team

Photographer · NICOLÓ PARSENZIANI
Fashion Stylist · MARCO DRAMMIS
Make Up and Hair Stylist · CLARISSA CARBONE
Casting Director · ISADORA BANAUDI
Fashion Stylist Assistant · DOMIZIANA D’ONGHIA
Make Up and Hair Stylist Assistant · CHIARA VIOLA
Studio Assistant · SARA GIORCELLI Photography Assistant · DAVIDE LIONELLO
Models · LESLYE HOUENOU at WOMEN MILANO and ALEKSANDR GUDRINSH at CREW MODEL MANAGEMENT


Designers

  1. Bottega Veneta

Antonio Dicorato

Credits

Models · LOUISE MENARD at GIRL MANAGEMENT, KESTELMANN TOUSSAINT at SUCCESS MODELS, SARAH DAOUI at OUI MANAGEMENT
Photography · ANTONIO DICORATO
Art Direction · LAURA GAVRILENKO BURMAN
Fashion · MIREY ENVEROVA
Casting · REMI FELIPE
Hair Stylist · ASAMI MAEDA at WISE AND TALENTED
Make up · AURELIA LIANSBERG at WISE AND TALENTED

Anastasia Korolkova

Tears and Cheers

Team

Models · IULIIA SAVINOVA
Photography, Art Direction · ANASTASIA KOROLKOVA
Fashion · MARIA BARBAYANOVA
Make up · FARIZA RODRIGUEZ
Hair · EKATERINA POKORNAYA
Photography Assistant · GENNADIY MELKOZEROV
Fashion Assistant · KIRA VASIL’KOVA

Designers

  1. Turtleneck JIL SANDER Dress MARIIA ERSHOVA
  2. Dress JIL SANDER Necklace J.KIM
  3. Sweater Stylist’s archive Skirt OTOCYON Clogs KHAITE
  4. Shorts Y/PROJECT
  5. Turtleneck JIL SANDER Dress MARIIA ERSHOVA
  6. Shirt VERTIGO
  7. Shirt VERTIGO Trousers Stylist’s archive Boots LOEWE
  8. Sweater Stylist’s archive Skirt OTOCYON
  9. Blazer Stylist’s Archive Top STROGOVINTAGE
  10. Dress JIL SANDER Necklace J.KIM Shoes Stylist’s archive
  11. Blazer Stylist’s Archive Top STROGOVINTAGE Leggings Stylist’s archive Clogs KHAITE
  12. Polo Shirt Y/PROJECT

Jurga Ramonaite


Credits

Models · MELODY LULU-BRIGGS at THE HIVE MANAGEMENT, MATTHEW KELLER at XDIRECTN
Photography · JURGA RAMONAITE
Fashion · HANNAH LORD
Casting · MC BARNES
Hair · KATSUYA KACHI

Designers

  1. Dress SAINT LAURENT
  2. Suit ARMANI Shirt RENATA BRENHA Shoes BOTTEGA VENETA
  3. Melody wears Top ARMANI, Short and Shoes SAINT LAURENT Matthew wears Dress LAURA ANDRASCHKO and Shoes BOTTEGA VENETA
  4. Melody wears Top RENATA BRENHA and Tights SWEDISH STOCKINGS
  5. Suit ARMANI Shirt RENATA BRENHA Shoes BOTTEGA VENETA
  6. Melody and Matthew wear Tops RENATA BRENHA and Tights SWEDISH STOCKINGS
  7. Matthew wears Blazer RICK OWENSMelody wears Blazer JIL SANDER
  8. Matthew wears Top SITUATIONIST, Trousers BALENCIAGA, Shoes ARMANIMelody wears Top VALENTINO, Trousers and Shoes ARMANI
  9. Matthew wears Top SITUATIONIST, Trousers BALENCIAGA, Shoes ARMANI Melody wears Top VALENTINO, Trousers and Shoes ARMANI
  10. Melody wears Top ARMANI, Short and Shoes SAINT LAURENT Matthew wears Dress LAURA ANDRASCHKO and Shoes BOTTEGA VENETA
  11. Melody wears Top ARMANI, Short and Shoes SAINT LAURENT
  12. Dress and Shoes SAINT LAURENT
  13. Suit ARMANI Shirt RENATA BRENHA Shoes BOTTEGA VENETA
  14. Dress and Shoes SAINT LAURENT

Aude Moreau

“I think what motivates my work is the word: privatisation”

Less is more or… is it? For visual artist Aude Moreau, whose works includes carpets of sugar that take up entire galleries or large scale installations that cut across the Toronto skyline, one cannot help think that ‘more’ is the grander option.

For the latter work, Moreau spelt out those same words “Less Is More Or” across the face of the Toronto-Dominion Centre’s skyscrapers. The buildings were designed by the German-American architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, and Moreau twists his famous maxim ‘less is more’ leaving it open to interpretation when juxtaposed with his towering skyscrapers. “I wanted to revisit the interpretation of the evolution of modernism and the possibilities of what is to come . . . to say ‘what now?”

Moreau’s practice encompasses her dual training in the visual arts and scenography. The time she spends creating her works range from years of painstaking preparation for ambitious installations to more short term interventions. She “focuses a relevant, critical gaze upon showbiz society, the privatisation of the public space, and the domination of the State by economic powers in today’s world.” NR Magazine joined the artist in conversation.

Much of your work is realised on a very large scale, how do you deal with the practicalities of seeing such ambitious projects through to fruition? 

I think it was my dual training in visual arts and scenography and then the fact of having worked in cinema that allowed me to develop large-scale projects. The theatre and the cinema are fields that depend on a multitude of skills in order to create a work. Also, a large part of my job involves surrounding myself with a team that can help me achieve my projects. In that sense, I act a bit like a producer.

There is a political element to your work, do you consider it a form of activism? 

Activism demands clarity of message, transparency that excludes contradiction or paradox. Art is polysemous. So I would say that it is ‘the political’ rather than politics that runs through my work.

Are there any particular concepts or inspirations which drive your creative process?

I feel like I often forget what guides me and at the same time always revolve around the same thing, without being able to name it completely. Each new project brings its own issues, its own context. Right now, I think what motivates my work is the word: privatisation. It is a term that we associate with economic vocabulary, but which, in its polysemy, describes complex realities which affect the ideological relations of our time. The criticism of the “spectacle”, the structures of power, the activation of already existing places, the ephemerality of the works, are various anchor points stated in the 70s and have nourished my practice.

Sugar can be quite a difficult substance to work with as it tends to clump together with even the slightest bit of moisture in the air. With Tapis de Sucre, was this an issue and if so did you try to stop it from hardening or did you consider the change in materials as part of the artwork?

I was not confronted with this reality during the “Sugar Carpet” installation. There have been several editions of the work in different contexts. I think it’s because the industry takes care of this kind of problem through different methods, including adding emulsifiers like magnesium stearate.

However, once the installation is complete, each accident remains imprinted on the surface without altering the trompe l’oeil and the overall vision. The accidents that mark the surface bear witness to the life of the place and momentarily shatter the trompe-l’oeil. These stigmas refer to the fragility of the work. It is the reversal of the monumental and its spectacle which echoes the fragility of our presences that makes the work moving. Like an invitation to cross the trompe-l’oeil to catch a glimpse of the deadly reality of this industry, both in its historical production methods and in its consumption.

Architecture seems to play quite a large role in your artwork, why is that?

Probably because architecture plays a big role in our daily lives. It defines our habitats, structures our movements, testifies to our time and our way of thinking while talking about previous eras. It is silent but contains in itself the production contingencies of an era, and bears witness to the historical, political, economic, technical, cultural and ideological contexts that it emerged from.

In this sense, Gordon Matta-Clark’s cuts in architecture greatly interested and challenged me. And the reading of Dan Graham’s text which puts in dialogue the cuts in the architecture of Matta-Clark and the concept of transparency in Mies van der Rohe through the question of the penetration of light was a major trigger in the process of creating my skyscraper illuminations projects.

What was the most exciting project which you worked on? 

The last project « Less is More or ».

What was the meaning behind showing your own version of Mies’ famous maxim ‘less is more’ on the skyscrapers he designed. Was it irony or something more complex? 

In fact, I modify the sentence of Mies van der Rohe by adding the word “or” to complete the occupation of the four facades of each of the skyscrapers. This has the effect of inscribing the sentence in a loop. “Less is More or Less …” This lessening of the affirmation refers to “post-modern” semantics which, while criticizing the modernist project (the great utopias, the desire for a social architecture, etc.), defends the idea that all points of view are equal. However, this equivalence of individual points of view creates new norms and forms of alienation.

So, this is not ironic towards the architectural achievements of Mies van der Rohe, but ironic compared to the flattened world we live in. A constantly updated world that works to erase traces at the same time as it blocks the horizon by creating disproportionate surpluses. Surplus of images, data, storage, memories, codes, goods, plastics, fashions, tastes, opinions, etc.

What do you want people to take away from your artwork? 

Questions and the feeling that anything is possible.

What advice would you give to young creatives interested in creating large scale and ambitious works? 

I would say that the large-scale works do not necessarily require large resources. However, it requires persistence. The realisation of the projects can take several years, even decades. Therefore, it is essential to ask the question of the need for an occupation of space of this type and to find allies. This is particularly true for projects carried out in public space.

Are you working on any projects at the moment and what plans do you have for the future? 

Yes, I am working on my next exhibition which will take place in January 2022 at the Bradley Ertaskiran Gallery in Montreal. A new corpus that will bring together sculptural and two-dimensional works around the issue of melting ice. Inspired by a brief trip to the Rockies in Alberta, visiting the Columbia Icefield and especially the Athabasca Glacier. The geographic context is particularly significant given the proximity of the glacier and the oil industry in the province.

In the longer term, I would like to achieve “the Blue Line”, which is ongoing. This is an ambitious project, the idea of which germinated about 10 years ago, and which has gone through different phases of development without being completed to date. It is about drawing a line of blue light 65 meters high on the facades of 20 buildings bordering the East River in the Financial District of Manhattan. The height corresponds to that of the rising waters if all the ice on the planet melted. When I think about this project, I tell myself that it must be done now, there is a sense of urgency that rises.

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